Testing Skincare Products

Perform all the tests on your raw materials and finished products to make sure they are effective and your claim is substantiated

Substantiate your claims: prove the efficacy of your cosmetic products for facial care

Abich – Lifeanalytics offers a wide range of in vitro and in vivo tests based on state-of-the-art technologies to optimally meet your needs!

The face is the part of the body which is most exposed to damage by external factors and air pollution. It is also the place where the effects of problems such as acne and skin ageing are most visible. It is therefore advisable to adopt a proper beauty routine with the right daily skincare products.

Today, there are products – such as detergents, anti-acne products or the classic anti-wrinkle cream – that are suitable for all ages, skin types, phototypes, and any related problems. Notwithstanding the proliferation of innovations that have made the cosmetics industry extremely competitive, one thing always remains the most important: the efficacy of a product is fundamental for consumers and the success of the product itself.

  • Cleansing products
    They aim at removing impurities while respecting the skin pH and the lipid layer protecting the face from dehydration. They are divided in two main categories depending on if they contain surfactants or not: those functioning by aggregation and those functioning by proximity. They are tested in vitro and in vivo to prove their cleansing efficacy and their ability not to alter skin physiology.
  • Moisturisers
    Just like any other claim, the ‘moisturising’ claim cannot be taken for granted. Indeed, it should be substantiated by specific efficacy tests on both raw materials and finished product. The analysis can be performed with corneometry, the most used cosmetological study, or the TEWL test, which allows to check indirect hydration and the skin barrier function recovery against water loss. In addition, there are in-vitro hydration measurements of dehydrated keratinocytes with saline solutions and the analysis of aquaporin expression.
  • Products for specific problems
    Another important task of cosmetic products for skincare is to prevent and reduce the imperfections associated with problems such as acne and skin ageing.
    In the first case, product efficacy can be measured either directly by assessing the decreased proliferation of the Propionibacterium acnes bacterium or indirectly by measuring the increased or decreased expression of the enzymes involved in the sebum-regulating process such as lipase and 5-α reductase.
    In the second case, claims such as ‘anti-ageing’ and ‘it reduces the signs of ageing’ must be substantiated in a scientific and repeatable manner. The measurement requires an extremely high degree of accuracy, in particular as regards the substantiation of claims thought for young women dealing with their first wrinkles. For this reason, Abich – Lifeanalytics has designed a method based on blue Laser skin profilometry that allows to assess 2D, 3D, and morphological wrinkle changes with an extremely high degree of accuracy, in addition to semi-quantitative imaging methods for the evaluation or anti-wrinkle skin profilometry.
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Lifeanalytics, your safest choice in cosmetics

Abich Lifeanalytics, the Group’s Competence Center for Pharma and Cosmetics industries, offers the full range of tests necessary to ensure the safety and efficacy of your skincare products, thus guaranteeing results with high clinical-cosmetological value.

Find out the full range of tests:

The test is designed to be applied to visage and body cosmetics for oily skin with the purpose of substantiating claims “Non-comedogenic” and “Seboregulating” according to Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013.

Sebometric measurements in triplicate performed with Sebometer® at T=0 and T=X days after the treatment. Measurements will be performed on the cheeks after treatment. The untreated forehead will be used as a control. The measurements will compensate for circadian rhythms and will therefore be performed at the same time during the day. Open and closed comedones will be counted under Wood’s lamp illumination. Clinical evaluation of high resolution imaging will be performed using a contrast system at T=0 and after X days of treatment.

The test is designed to cosmetics and raw cosmetic ingredients with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Anti-acne” according to proprietary method.

Evaluation of the anti-acne efficacy by testing the inhibition of the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes by an ingredient or finished product

The test is designed to active ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Seboregulating” according to proprietary method.

Quantification of the changes in the gene expression of 5α-reductase in human dermal papilla cells. Demonstration of the efficacy of the ingredient or finished product in reducing the expression of mRNA codifying for 5α-reductase type I or II.

The test is designed to active ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Seboregulating” according to proprietary method.

Quantification of the changes in the gene expression of 5α-reductase in murine Balb/3T3 fibroblasts. Demonstration of the efficacy of the ingredient or finished product in reducing the expression of mRNA codifying for 5α-reductase type I or II.

The test is designed to active ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Seboregulating” according to proprietary method.

Analysis of the in vitro expression of the 5α-reductase enzyme by real time PCR in comparison with untreated substrates for the evaluation of inhibition effects. Demonstration of the efficacy of the ingredient or finished product in reducing the expression of mRNA codifying for 5α-reductase type I or II.

The test is designed to active ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Seboregulating” according to proprietary method.

Analysis of the activation of the activity of enzymatic lipase in a controlled triglyceride hydrolysis reaction.

The test is designed to raw materials and finished products with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-aging”, “Anti-wrinkle” and “Reduces signs of aging” according to proprietary method. Blue laser skin profilometry: this technique allows you to carry out cosmetological studies of anti-wrinkle products with great reproducibility and accuracy thanks to a sophisticated instrumental and electronic set-up, which allows you to normalize the position of the volunteer and the test area in a millimetric way, an indispensable condition in conducting an anti-aging clinical study for the reduction of facial wrinkles. This clinical study allows a quantitative experimental evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect through 2D measurements of wrinkles (Ra, Rz, LR, SPa, SPt, SPTm), and 3D (volume, average and maximum depth of wrinkles), and through quantitative morphological evaluations (mm2 of total surface covered by wrinkles). This allows the anti-wrinkle effect of any product to be assessed in the most appropriate way: immediate tensor effect, filler, firming effects (firming, toning, plumping, etc.).

The test is designed to raw materials and finished products with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-aging” and “Reduces signs of aging” according to proprietary method.

In vitro evaluation of the synthesis of hyaluronic acid up to 48h following exposure to the sample, in several concentrations, on skin and dermal papillae fibroblasts.

The test is designed to substances or mixtures with the purpose of substantiating claims “No skin sensitizing” and “Hypoallergenic” according to OECD 442D.

The ARE-Nrf2 method employs cytofluorometry to quantify the antioxidant response in a culture of human keratinocytes after exposure to the product.

The test is designed to raw materials and finished products with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-pollution” and “Antioxidant” according to proprietary method.

In vitro test for the evaluation of the protective effect against air pollution. The purpose of this test is to evaluate the efficacy of the sample in reducing ROS release in response to a mix of heavy metals and atmospheric dust particulate in a skin-derived cell model.

The test is designed to raw materials with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Antioxidant” according to UE Regulations.

Quantification of the antioxidant efficacy through ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) test.

The test is designed to visage products for mature skin with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-aging”, “Reduces signs of aging” and “Illuminating” according to Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013.

Instrumental evaluation of R0, R2 and R9 parameters. Instrument: MPA580 Cutometer® for the determination of skin viscoelasticity. Manufacturer: Courage-Khazaka GmbH (Germany).
The L* parameter is also quantified for skin brightness. The effect is quantified through reflection colorimetry using a CL-200 Chromameter Measurements of parameters L* and b* are performed before and after the application of the product.

The test is designed to finished products and substances with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Antioxidant” according to proprietary method.

Colorimetric evaluation of the antioxidant activity of the sample in solution on a controlled oxidation reaction. Results in terms of percentage of decrease of oxidation processes caused by free oxygen radicals.

The test is designed to raw ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Antioxidant” according to proprietary method.

Quantification of the efficacy of the sample in inhibiting cytoplasmic oxidation phenomenon and protecting the skin cell model (immortalized human keratinocytes) from damaged caused by ROS.

The test is designed to finished products and active ingredients with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-aging” and “Redensifies and tones the epidermis” according to proprietary method.

Quantitative evaluation of the efficacy of a product or active ingredient in increasing cell proliferation and protein synthesis. MTT test and protein quantification at different time intervals. The test can be performed on human keratinocytes or fibroblasts.

The test is designed to raw materials and finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Inhibition of bacterial adhesion” according to proprietary method.

Evaluation of bacterial adhesion on mammal cells, performed on the CACO-2 cell line.

The test is designed to be applied to chemical substances or mixtures with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Non-irritant for the eyes” according to OECD 492.

Identification of chemical substances or mixtures that do not require classification as (severe) irritants through evaluation of their cytotoxic effects on an in vitro reconstructed corneal epithelium model.

NOTE: if the sample qualifies as irritant, further tests are required in order to determine the degree of irritant action.

The test is designed to be applied to raw ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Non-irritant for the eyes (CLP Labeling)” according to OECD 491.

Short term exposure analysis by application of each tested substance on SIRC (Statens Seruminstitut Rabbit Cornea) cells for the determination of the effect on cell viability through MTT test.

The test is designed to be applied to chemical substances or mixtures with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Non-irritant for the skin” according to OECD 439.

Patch test for the evaluation of the irritation potential of chemical substances or mixtures through evaluation of their cytotoxic effect on an in vitro reconstructed model of human skin.

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