Testing Skincare Products
Perform all the tests on your raw materials and finished products to make sure they are effective and your claim is substantiated
Substantiate your claims: prove the efficacy of your cosmetic products for facial care
Abich – Lifeanalytics offers a wide range of in vitro and in vivo tests based on state-of-the-art technologies to optimally meet your needs!
The face is the part of the body which is most exposed to damage by external factors and air pollution. It is also the place where the effects of problems such as acne and skin ageing are most visible. It is therefore advisable to adopt a proper beauty routine with the right daily skincare products.
Today, there are products – such as detergents, anti-acne products or the classic anti-wrinkle cream – that are suitable for all ages, skin types, phototypes, and any related problems. Notwithstanding the proliferation of innovations that have made the cosmetics industry extremely competitive, one thing always remains the most important: the efficacy of a product is fundamental for consumers and the success of the product itself.
- Cleansing products
They aim at removing impurities while respecting the skin pH and the lipid layer protecting the face from dehydration. They are divided in two main categories depending on if they contain surfactants or not: those functioning by aggregation and those functioning by proximity. They are tested in vitro and in vivo to prove their cleansing efficacy and their ability not to alter skin physiology. - Moisturisers
Just like any other claim, the ‘moisturising’ claim cannot be taken for granted. Indeed, it should be substantiated by specific efficacy tests on both raw materials and finished product. The analysis can be performed with corneometry, the most used cosmetological study, or the TEWL test, which allows to check indirect hydration and the skin barrier function recovery against water loss. In addition, there are in-vitro hydration measurements of dehydrated keratinocytes with saline solutions and the analysis of aquaporin expression. - Products for specific problems
Another important task of cosmetic products for skincare is to prevent and reduce the imperfections associated with problems such as acne and skin ageing.
In the first case, product efficacy can be measured either directly by assessing the decreased proliferation of the Propionibacterium acnes bacterium or indirectly by measuring the increased or decreased expression of the enzymes involved in the sebum-regulating process such as lipase and 5-α reductase.
In the second case, claims such as ‘anti-ageing’ and ‘it reduces the signs of ageing’ must be substantiated in a scientific and repeatable manner. The measurement requires an extremely high degree of accuracy, in particular as regards the substantiation of claims thought for young women dealing with their first wrinkles. For this reason, Abich – Lifeanalytics has designed a method based on blue Laser skin profilometry that allows to assess 2D, 3D, and morphological wrinkle changes with an extremely high degree of accuracy, in addition to semi-quantitative imaging methods for the evaluation or anti-wrinkle skin profilometry.
Lifeanalytics, your safest choice in cosmetics
Abich – Lifeanalytics, the Group’s Competence Center for Pharma and Cosmetics industries, offers the full range of tests necessary to ensure the safety and efficacy of your skincare products, thus guaranteeing results with high clinical-cosmetological value.
Find out the full range of tests:
Seboregulation activity test and count of closed and open comedones
The test is designed to be applied to visage and body cosmetics for oily skin with the purpose of substantiating claims “Non-comedogenic” and “Seboregulating” according to Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013.
Sebometric measurements in triplicate performed with Sebometer® at T=0 and T=X days after the treatment. Measurements will be performed on the cheeks after treatment. The untreated forehead will be used as a control. The measurements will compensate for circadian rhythms and will therefore be performed at the same time during the day. Open and closed comedones will be counted under Wood’s lamp illumination. Clinical evaluation of high resolution imaging will be performed using a contrast system at T=0 and after X days of treatment.
Antimicrobial activity test vs Propionibacterium acnes
The test is designed to cosmetics and raw cosmetic ingredients with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Anti-acne” according to proprietary method.
Evaluation of the anti-acne efficacy by testing the inhibition of the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes by an ingredient or finished product
5α-reductase inhibition efficacy test by mRNA analysis on dermal papillae cells
The test is designed to active ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Seboregulating” according to proprietary method.
Quantification of the changes in the gene expression of 5α-reductase in human dermal papilla cells. Demonstration of the efficacy of the ingredient or finished product in reducing the expression of mRNA codifying for 5α-reductase type I or II.
5α-reductase inhibition efficacy test by mRNA analysis
The test is designed to active ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Seboregulating” according to proprietary method.
Quantification of the changes in the gene expression of 5α-reductase in murine Balb/3T3 fibroblasts. Demonstration of the efficacy of the ingredient or finished product in reducing the expression of mRNA codifying for 5α-reductase type I or II.
5α-reductase inhibition efficacy test
The test is designed to active ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Seboregulating” according to proprietary method.
Analysis of the in vitro expression of the 5α-reductase enzyme by real time PCR in comparison with untreated substrates for the evaluation of inhibition effects. Demonstration of the efficacy of the ingredient or finished product in reducing the expression of mRNA codifying for 5α-reductase type I or II.
Lipase stimulation efficacy test
The test is designed to active ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Seboregulating” according to proprietary method.
Analysis of the activation of the activity of enzymatic lipase in a controlled triglyceride hydrolysis reaction.
Anti-wrinkle activity through skin profilometry
Hyaluronic acid synthesis test
The test is designed to raw materials and finished products with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-aging” and “Reduces signs of aging” according to proprietary method.
In vitro evaluation of the synthesis of hyaluronic acid up to 48h following exposure to the sample, in several concentrations, on skin and dermal papillae fibroblasts.
OECD 442D in vitro sensitization test
The test is designed to substances or mixtures with the purpose of substantiating claims “No skin sensitizing” and “Hypoallergenic” according to OECD 442D.
The ARE-Nrf2 method employs cytofluorometry to quantify the antioxidant response in a culture of human keratinocytes after exposure to the product.
In vitro test for the evaluation of the protective effect against air pollution
The test is designed to raw materials and finished products with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-pollution” and “Antioxidant” according to proprietary method.
In vitro test for the evaluation of the protective effect against air pollution. The purpose of this test is to evaluate the efficacy of the sample in reducing ROS release in response to a mix of heavy metals and atmospheric dust particulate in a skin-derived cell model.
Antioxidant efficacy test: ORAC Test
The test is designed to raw materials with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Antioxidant” according to UE Regulations.
Quantification of the antioxidant efficacy through ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) test.
Evaluation of skin smothness, elasticity and compactness
The test is designed to visage products for mature skin with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-aging”, “Reduces signs of aging” and “Illuminating” according to Guidelines to Commission Regulation (EU) No 655/2013.
Instrumental evaluation of R0, R2 and R9 parameters. Instrument: MPA580 Cutometer® for the determination of skin viscoelasticity. Manufacturer: Courage-Khazaka GmbH (Germany).
The L* parameter is also quantified for skin brightness. The effect is quantified through reflection colorimetry using a CL-200 Chromameter Measurements of parameters L* and b* are performed before and after the application of the product.
Direct antioxidant efficacy assay
The test is designed to finished products and substances with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Antioxidant” according to proprietary method.
Colorimetric evaluation of the antioxidant activity of the sample in solution on a controlled oxidation reaction. Results in terms of percentage of decrease of oxidation processes caused by free oxygen radicals.
Anti-radical and antioxidant efficacy test on skin cells
The test is designed to raw ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Antioxidant” according to proprietary method.
Quantification of the efficacy of the sample in inhibiting cytoplasmic oxidation phenomenon and protecting the skin cell model (immortalized human keratinocytes) from damaged caused by ROS.
Quantification of the increase in proliferation and activation of protein synthesis on skin cells
The test is designed to finished products and active ingredients with the purpose of substantiating claims “Anti-aging” and “Redensifies and tones the epidermis” according to proprietary method.
Quantitative evaluation of the efficacy of a product or active ingredient in increasing cell proliferation and protein synthesis. MTT test and protein quantification at different time intervals. The test can be performed on human keratinocytes or fibroblasts.
Evaluation of bacterial adhesion on mammal cells
The test is designed to raw materials and finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Inhibition of bacterial adhesion” according to proprietary method.
Evaluation of bacterial adhesion on mammal cells, performed on the CACO-2 cell line.
Ocular irritation test on reconstructed corneal epithelium
The test is designed to be applied to chemical substances or mixtures with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Non-irritant for the eyes” according to OECD 492.
Identification of chemical substances or mixtures that do not require classification as (severe) irritants through evaluation of their cytotoxic effects on an in vitro reconstructed corneal epithelium model.
NOTE: if the sample qualifies as irritant, further tests are required in order to determine the degree of irritant action.
In vitro short term exposure test
The test is designed to be applied to raw ingredients or finished products with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Non-irritant for the eyes (CLP Labeling)” according to OECD 491.
Short term exposure analysis by application of each tested substance on SIRC (Statens Seruminstitut Rabbit Cornea) cells for the determination of the effect on cell viability through MTT test.
Patch test for the evaluation of the irritation potential on 3D reconstructed epidermis
The test is designed to be applied to chemical substances or mixtures with the purpose of substantiating the claim “Non-irritant for the skin” according to OECD 439.
Patch test for the evaluation of the irritation potential of chemical substances or mixtures through evaluation of their cytotoxic effect on an in vitro reconstructed model of human skin.
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